Shanghai Science Museum

What a very nice museum - clearly a lot of money was spent and world-class design expertise used on this facility. Lots of in-depth exhibits, nice spaces, and 100% Chinese & English sings throughout. The only funny thing was the age mismatch between the material and the attendees - the material included electronics, quantum theory, etc. but the average age of the children there was about 5 years old !

Beijing - Where Texans go to learn about big

Beijing is big. Not in the sense of a huge city, which it is, but in the sense that its smallest features are gigantic. It's temples and squares are the world's largest, it's main city blocks a mile square. On the map, things that look like they should be 100m are 1km, which is greatly deceiving when you think you can walk between any two points.

Beijing is far less intimate than Shanghai, which is compact and very street level. The capital city is famous for its dozens of wide boulevards which route traffic, but really separate city component from each other. And every temple has lots of open space, apparently to provide room for past emperors' entourages, which could be 1km or more in length. Texans really do need to see Beijing to understand big.

Wine & Wine Girl

Had an interesting extended conversation with a girl in a western wine shop this week. They are a high-end French place, with $25-250 wines. It's funny that she has to sell wine she's never tasted, since the manager thinks the wine is too expensive to waste on them; instead he tells them what it's like so they can tell customers !

And actually this doesn't matter much, since Westerners don't shop there - it's mostly rich out-of-town Chinese who want the status of serving expensive wine at meals, so they have no idea what they are buying anyway. Interesting how markets develop.

She also was rather forward about the advantages of various forms of government (such as multiple parties in the U.S.) and looking forward to more competition among ideas as Chinese politics evolve.

Pleasure Quarters

Somehow I thought the sex trade was not quite so vibrant in the lovely city of Shanghai, but it sure is there. I had a long conversation with my foot massage guy this morning (in Mandarin), who told me they get 20 guests/day coming in for "full-service" massages. The price is roughly $100-150, which I guess is a bargain (having never been in the market myself), but I'm struck by how many men seek this service. It's also quite inconvenient for me, since the massage folks are "busy" most of the night and thus wake up very late, making it hard to get a good foot massage before noon.

Separately, I'm also struck by the sheer volume and aggressiveness of the 'working girls' at high-end bars. I was in the bar at one of the cities best hotels, where there were three guys and 5-6 professional girls, all dressed up. And more outside to come up to you when you leave by any exit. And these are not heroin ho's, but very good-looking, well-dressed women. Quite a market, I guess.

First-world Services for Third-world Prices

One of the coolest things about China is that you can get 1st-world services for 3rd-world prices. Of course, you can get cheap 3rd-world services everywhere, but only here can you get treated very well very cheaply. Very often you get U.S.-quality services at 10% of the price.

For example, two weeks ago four of us had a shampoo, 20 minute head massage, 20 minute shoulder massage, a hair cut, and finally another shampoo. All in a U.S.-style salon where the four of us had our own area with up to 8 people attending to us. The whole process took nearly two hours, for the astonishing price of $5. It would have been much more expensive, $10, if my friends were not members.

Other examples include decent taxis for $1-3, an hour massage for less than $10, etc. Not to mention a maid, nanny, or driver, for $250/month.

What if such things were such prices in the U.S. ? We'd all be a lot more pampered, and probably happier.

Discrimination Against Chinese in China

Heard a disturbing story in Shanghai, about a local popular foreigner hang-out. There were rumors that this place didn't want many Chinese customers, so a Chinese guy I know had a buddy call and ask in Chinese if they had any booths left to reserve and was told no. Then my friend called and asked in English and they said, sure, we have several. This is disturbing on many levels, from being wrong in the first place, to really pissing off our gracious hosts who are understandably sensitive to this sort of thing.

Bottomless pants

I had heard, but never seen, these - baby's pants with no bottom ! The kid can just poop or whatever, whenever and wherever they want ! A bit of a strange sight on the subway, but it turns out of course, that this is quite common on many countries. Now, you might wonder, as I did, how you keep said child from pooping in the subway. Turns out that this entire process is called "Elimination Communication" or "Natural Infant Hygiene" - see this WikiPedia Article on it. There is even a website dedicated to this process. Basically you start teaching the child at birth to signal when it is necessary to use that giant hole in the pants. Lots of verbal and hand queues, etc. Interesting.

Visiting Shuzhou

I had a chance to spend an afternoon in the city of Suzhou, about an hour from Shanghai. Suzhou is famous for its canals and hundreds-of-year-old gardens. We took the train to the city, which was an interesting experience (see another blog entry on the train), including the train station full of migrants and day-trippers to the city.

I must admit I was disappointed by Suzhou, as neither the gardens not canals lived up to my expectations. Perhaps these were set too high by hearing that Suzhou was like Venice or Amsterdam with canals, gardens, etc. The gardens were nice and very large, though not maintained as well as I'd hoped. More challenging were the canals, which had limited interesting areas, far less than similar canals in old Shanghai - I was really looking for canal-side cafes and tables, but perhaps I'll find them on future trips.

Hospital Visit in Beijing

So I had the unfortunately opportunity to visit a Beijing hospital since I was pretty sick from bad food a while ago. Given that I'm told people have died there of such things I didn't want to take any chances.

While the quality of Chinese health care is quite challenging on many levels. Many big hospitals have wings that cater to ex-pats that can pay accordingly. Generally equipped with English-speaking or Western doctors and update-to-date equipment, they are the life-line for foreigners, though for serious injuries or elective surgery, Hong Kong is the preferred alternative.

So, my friend chose the China-Japan Friendship Hospital, regarded as the best in Beijing. The foreigner wing was empty and I was the only patient, so I had the doctor, nurse, pharmacist, lab tech, and receptionist to myself - they were all very nice.

After my an examination, blood and other tests, etc. the doctor indicated I had inflammation in my digestive track and prescribed two medications, which they sold me on the spot. Total cost for registration, exam, lab tests, medicine, etc. was $45. That probably would have been $450 in the U.S. I have heard challenging stories from some hospitals, but my experience was exemplary.

I feel bad for local Chinese who do not receive such care, who have been pushed into a system they cannot afford (with docs and hospitals incented to do tests and sell drugs), and who generally do not fare well in the current system.

Beijing Impressions

This was my first time in Beijing, which is a very interesting city, rich with architecture, history, culture, and deep meaning for China going back over 1,000 years. I did not have much time to see the sights and was sick one day, but managed to get to the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, and Houhai Lake.

It's a city of many wide boulevards, contrasted to Shanghai's crowded streets and old neighborhoods. Plus the usual capital-oriented large buildings, monuments, and throngs of tourists there to look at everything; it was good to see large numbers of Chinese at all of the exhibits, especially those that traveled a long way to see the their national treasures.

There are some challenges, though, which unfortunately started with mean taxi drivers - it's not clear how they will inject friendliness in time for the 2008 Olympics - the airport taxi coordinator had to practically yell at my driver to get him to take me into the city, and my friend had the same experience. Fortunately, the driver that took me to the airport days later was very nice and talkative within the limits of my poor Mandarin.

The air is something else. Beijing gets blanketing dust storms each spring, with the last ones just weeks before and the taste of dust still in the air. I thought Shanghai had challenged air until I went to Beijing where I couldn't see too many blocks down the street! So much dust and haze, that I cannot imagine how it must be when it's 100 degrees in the summer, or full of coal dust in the winter.

Finally, Beijing traffic is out of hand, even on weekends. Beijing is a far-flung city, like Los Angeles, with several business and embassy districts, plus government areas - even though it has five big ring roads that circle the city - traveling on and between them is fairly slow and painful. By contrast, Shanghai is a larger city, but it's central district where all of the business and most of the foreigners hang out is very compact, roughly a square box a mile on each side (bounded by Nanjing Xi Lu/Suzhou Creek, Xujiahui, Huaihai Lu, and Dongfang Lu in Pudong). It's criss-cross highway network connects pieces of the city together rather quickly.

Traffic Accidents - Instant Settlement

I was recently in a minor accident, not in China, but in a gas station in Menlo Park. It was very minor, a few scrapes and a broken light, and neither of us wanted to deal with insurance, so I paid the guy $100 and away we went. Not that common in the States, but the preferred way to settle such things in China, apparently even encouraged by the police - in some cases a crowd will even assemble and pass judgment on the amount owed (apparently not always a pleasant experience if you are a foreigner). Never-the-less, it is efficient and gets the job done.

Getting in vs. Getting out

It's interesting going in and out of China, where somewhat surprisingly, it takes longer to leave than to arrive. I've learned not to get behind lots of Chinese while leaving, as they are heavily scrutinized to insure they have proper visas and other approvals to leave, though they have also heavily looked at my passport from time to time. Further, there appears to be some internal security controls, in that you must pass through a sort of immigration checkpoint even on domestic flights. I've also been warned is never, ever over-stay your visa, even by a day or an hour, or the nice airport people will detain you for explanations.

Chinese Trains

I had the chance to take the train to Suzhou, 90 minutes away from Shanghai. My last time on a Chinese Train was nearly 20 years ago and many things have changed (though not everything).

Chinese trains have two classes - upper class and "hard seat," which unlike the name sounds, is just more economical and does indeed have padded seats (though it used to be a hard chair or plank, I guess).

We rode upper class on the 90 minute trip to Suzhou and it was pleasurable, sort of like being on an old, but serviceable Amtrak train. The train was fairly high speed, except when it wasn't, with numerous bouts of walking pace in various places, but still we arrived within a few minutes of our schedule time. One way fare was about $5.

The trip back was in hard seat, for a little under $3, and a bit more cozy. The most amusing part was the sock seller, who for about 10 minutes tried to sell packs of socks to the train car, tossing them around as demos, etc. I think one woman bought some, but it was otherwise just humorous.

Every day

"Every day in China you see things you don't see every day!" - A great quote from a former McDonald-Douglas aircraft executive. I love that quote and in fact the entire concept of that quote. It's true of course in far more places than China, but it is so profound it's worthy of its own blog entry.

Cell Phone Signal Everywhere

The Chinese are certainly cell-phone crazy - they are already the world's largest market and have a dizzying array of phones and service plans, with vendors on every corner. And they work, everywhere, including in the subways and in elevators. The carriers (mostly China Mobile & China Unicom) even have little stickers in most elevators tell you your cell phone will work. Very advanced and very cool.

Ayi's & Drivers Galore

One of the joys of living in a less-expensive country is the affordability of hired help, a luxury once afforded only by the rich. It seems in Shanghai that everyone has one or two Ayis, which means aunt, but really means maid or nanny. You usually have one for cleaning and then one for each of your children. They are cheap, but recent demand (many families have 2-3) makes it difficult and of course you don't give your children to just anyone. They rarely speak English and are culturally far from America, but it's a system that works, and works well. It's so common that when I once asked a women with two kids if she had an ayi, she looked at me funny, as if it was a stupid question (which it sort of was).

Further, many families also have a driver - you buy a car for usual prices and then hire a driver for a few hundred dollars per month. Very convenient, especially for carting mom and kids around town. In the end, these luxuries make it hard to move back to the West.

Overeducation in China

Had an interesting discussion yesterday with a professor who had an interesting perspective about higher education in China these days. Of course, education and advancement are high priorities in Chinese culture, but he wonders if this is not pushing too many students too far - everyone wants to go to the best universities, but many (most?) are not well suited to the rigors of such schools.

Further, no one wants their kids to take blue-collar or mid-level jobs, but of course hundreds of millions will take those jobs; this cannot be good for their psyche, as they are rejected from (or fail out of) good schools. Further, they see the newly rich all around them, forcing them to not be satisfied with their lot in life; this can both stimulate and depress them. There is also not a strong community college system, as unlike in the U.S., no one wants to go there, given they are a step (or two) down.

This is also partly due to the Japanese / English-style national tests, which force kids to cram and if they fail to get good scores to wait another year - these are far, far more high-pressure and deterministic than American SATs. I strongly dislike these tests, instead preferring the American system of many different tests and admission criteria for many types of schools, providing many different and individualistic opportunities for young people.

Massage & Massage People

Massage is everywhere in Shanghai, in all the hotels and many store-fronts, both mom & pop and chains. All (well, most) are above board and very cheap - an hour-long foot massage runs about $8-10 and is a true luxury. Full massages are more like $20-25.

I have only tried these in the hotels (which seems cleaner and safer, though I might find one of the chains), which have a curious structure. Most massage places are related to a hair or other salon business in the hotel, but these are all independent places, just paying rent and probably a percentage.

The interesting part is that the staff, routinely from poor areas, all live in the salon ! When I go there at 10am, they are usually still sleeping, apparently from many late nights and evening massages. You literally have to wake them up to help you in the middle of the morning. But they seem very skilled, especially at deep foot massages, plus they never speak English, providing an hour of free Mandarin conversation practice.

Communist Party Founding Meeting

I had a chance to visit the first meeting place of the Chinese Communist Party, on July 1, 1921 - now a museum as part of XinTianDi, a new upscale shopping district catering to foreigners. It is a small museum, but very interesting, especially the full-size replica of the meeting, complete with wax statues of all the key players, with a young Mao standing at the table - a very powerful scene to watch the founding of a country. Downstairs is the actual room the men met in, also a powerful scene. In the ultimate irony, though, a visit to the men's washroom shows Japanese sinks and American hand dryers; if Mao only knew.

Chinese food in China

In a word, yummy ! Or hen hao chi ! Inexpensive and delicious at every turn, and far, far better than in the U.S., even San Francisco. Shanghai of course has a wide variety of Chinese (and American) food, with a few pictures here - lots of Sichuan, or with fishheads or just good peppers.

Construction & Loss of old Buildings

China, and especially Shanghai, are free-construction zones, with projects and cranes everywhere, though it's slowed in recent years due to the government putting on the brakes. In fact, it's gone so far so fast that old and traditional parts of Shanghai are being razed at an alarming rate - it's hard for foreigners who want to live more traditionally (and cheaply) to find places because whole neighborhoods are flattened regularly.

This causes some rather serious problems for existing residents, as they are suddenly homeless and can't afford to live in the new housing that replaced theirs. They often have to move far from the city center and commute an hour or more to work. The government has fortunately responded by providing more subsidies so they can live in the new buildings, so the pressure is easing somewhat, but gentrification seems in full swing.

In the end, though only foreigners seem able to afford to preserve the old houses, with the hottest new development being XinTianDi, built in old Shikumen housing, mixed in with new high-rises. This sort of preservation development will likely become more popular, at least saving portions of the old areas, if only for tourists and shops, but far better than losing it all.

English here, there, and everywhere

The English situation in Shanghai is interesting - it's far more common than I thought, better than in Tokyo. This is especially true in nearly every Western or foreigner-facing establishment, partly because English can simply be a job requirement (even for bus-boys at some restaurants). I do wish the tax drivers spoke English - in Beijing they are taking courses to learn something like 1,000 mandatory phrases before the Olympics in 2008.

But beyond that, the government is working hard on English, including what seems to be a mandate that nearly all signs be in English. And I mean all - elevator permit, fire hose reels, electrical cabinets in obscure places, etc.

An interesting side note - the Shanghai government just banned signs that are English-only, requiring the Chinese equivalent be included. I'm not sure how this fits in for Starbucks or other western establishments, but we'll see.

Shanghai Subways

The subway system is very modern and clean, though unfortunately very limited in its coverage - in a city the size of Tokyo (which has 25+ subways), Shanghai has three operating lines and planes for 6 or so more; not nearly enough.

Subway etiquette is interesting, and very unlike Japan. In Tokyo, as the car stops you move to the side of the door so everyone can exit; there are even little feet painted on the platform so you know where to stand. Once everyone is out, you enter the car.

In Shanghai, as the car stops, you stand right in front of the door and as soon as it opens, you push inside the car, all as people are fighting their way out. This despite the signs asking you to wait - during rush hour there are platform guys to help keep people out of the way as passengers exit, otherwise it would be very challenging. But otherwise the subways are very pleasant and convenient.

Inside-out Hardware store on Beijing Lu

Shanghai's Beijing Street is an odd place - you can buy any sort of hardware you might need, from electronics to 6 inch water valves and everything between. They are all sold in little shops or stalls, but it's like a Home Depot exploded, spawning hundreds of little specialized vendors for blocks and blocks. And they are often very busy, with guys on scooters running in and out with hoses, lights, and everything needed to support one of the world's fastest growing cities.

Service Culture

Service is an ever-evolving process here in China. Even in Shanghai, the most commercial of cities, increasingly well attuned to global eteqitte (according to a recent poll), service at hotels and restaurants remains a bit elusive. For example, here I am sitting in my hotel at 7:30am with construction the floor above to wake everyone up. Or when the waiter and service guys stand two feet from your table as you browse the menu, but you have to stand up and wave to get them to take your order.

Unfortunately, it's not yet really in the culture, so it has to be taught, which is definitely a work in progress, even at high-end Western restaurants. I have had numerous experiences that would cause you to walk out of a Western establishment, and standard American service simply is not there yet, though usually in the little things (forgotten water glasses, empty plates piling up, hovering waiters). I hear it's getting better, though and in five years will be just like anywhere else. For now, only Starbucks seems to have really worked hard at drilling in friendly service to each and every employee; quite impressive, actually.

Shanghai Air

The air here is, um, interesting. Actually, not nearly as bad or polluted as I expected, but maybe that's an illusion as it fills my lungs with grit. If I'm ever here full time, it will be important to get a good HEPA filter. Sometimes you can barely see the sun !

It's pretty rare to see more than 10 blocks and often buildings just 500-1000 feet away are hazy, but at least there isn't any Beijing-style coal-fired pollution. Fortunately the city is now banning any car or bus without a first class European-level emissions certificate, which should help a lot (something like 150,000 vehicles will fail). And they are moving dozens of polluting factories out to the far suburbs.

Of couse some days are stunning !

Wine in China

Wine is the nectar of the gods - can I just say that ? Unfortunately, good wine is not that easy to come by in China - local wine is, um, a challenge (and hard to find) and foreign wine quite expensive. The market is dominated by the Australians on the low end and French on the high end. There are essentially no small American producers that hopefully will eventually drive the market once tastes develop.

But, it's interesting to see the wine culture develop, with young women going out to high-class places for a glass of Merlot or Cabernet; this can only be a good thing on many levels.

Shanghai Taxis

The taxi culture here is interesting - the taxis are essentially free, as they cost $1 on flag drop and about $1 for every 5-10 minutes after. The nearly hour ride from the airport is about $15. They are clean and relatively new, with polite drivers, and are everywhere except at rush hour when you need them most ! You really have to get where you are going before 5pm or you'll wait until 6:30 or later to find free cabs.

The drivers sit in little plastic bubbles for reasons I don't understand, as there is no crime here. Passengers are well advised to sit in the front seat, since there are no seatbelts in the back. That is bad because many drivers drive rather wildly, making NY taxi drivers seem very sane.

You can tell the seniority of your taxi driver by their license number - they are now about 270,000, adding 15-20,000 per year (though today my driver said they will add 30,000 next year). Unfortunately, many drivers over 200,000 don't know the city well and you have to explain how to get places. Drivers also get little stars for good service, so try to choose a driver with a few stars (five is the most, but very rare).

Shanghai Maglev - World's Fastest Train

The Maglev is quite a ride - 430kph, or 250 miles per hour ! Unfortunately it's only an 8 minute ride, but still the world's only maglev train on which you can buy a ticket. Connecting the subway system to Shanghai Pudong International Airport (PVG), the short run is a technology demonstrator and validation platform. Next year it will be extended to the domestic airport on the other side of the city. See movies here.

The real goal is to run from Shanghai to Beijing, a 1300km (800 mile) trip, and to then have ultra-fast train service to major cities. China has a unique transportation problem given its size and population - it's the size of the U.S. with population density of Europe, so it needs European-like trains over U.S. distances because its population is so large that it cannot possibly build enough U.S.-style airports to move people around.

The maglev is impressive, with German car technology and the Chinese working hard on the construction processes and engineering, since they have to cross many soil and route types not found in Germany. In fact, if the San Francisco to Los Angeles maglev ever gets built, it will likely be with Chinese technology.

Business Corruption

It should come as no surprise there are sometimes ethical and corruption issues in Chinese business, with lots of interesting stories to go around. Everyone seems to know companies with not one or two, but three or four sets of books. Or with the general manager moonlighting by working for the competition. Or lots of other run-of-the-mill fraud issues, some no worse than in other countries, but some endemic for now. You really have to investigate and, in Reagan's words, 'trust but verify,' which means frequent audits and very tight financial controls. As someone said recently, if you can't trust your CFO like your mother, hire your mother. This problem will of course wane with time, but for now, caution is warranted.

Shanghai International

Shanghai is a first-class international city, its once and future fame and fortune well-deserved as the city seems to re-create itself as it goes. Initially built or at least controlled largely by foreigners in the 19th century, it has a very European feel in many ways, mixed in with Chinese culture and 21st century architecture, all in the same place.

The Shanghainese are many things (good and bad), but they are very international in outlook and perspective - I just saw a survey indicating that the local folks are steadily improving their English and knowledge of the global ettiqute while following world news on a daily or weekly basis. Such outwardly focus means the Shanghainese are very comfortable with foreigners; in fact the French Concession and international business district are one of the hottest neighborhoods to live in (especially for foreigners, but for internationally-oriented Chinese, too).

Making Clothes

One of the cool things about many Asian cities over the years is the ability to buy custom-made clothes inexpensively. In Shanghai there is an entire district for this, with a huge warehouse-like building with hundreds of stalls/vendors making everything imaginable - suits, sweaters, shirts, skirts, coats, everything. A nice man's dress shirt it about $10, though you have to find a vendor you like, especially if you are hard to fit like me.

One interesting issue is that when everything is custom, you have to think of (or decide) everything - even for a simple shirt, what sort of buttons, which of 10 different collars, what sort of sleeve and cuff, types and location of pockets, etc. Very interesting process.

Dangerous Streets

The streets here are the most dangerous I've ever seen - not really for cars, but for pedestrians ! The problem is not so much the cars, but the bikes, which are everywhere and I mean everywhere - sidewalks, alleys, everywhere. And of course the signal lights are merely advisory for cars or bikes - a red light is more like a yellow in America.

So, when you step off the curb, you really take your life in your hands - look all ways at all times, and constantly. Bikes come at your from all directions and never, ever have lights, making night-time especially problematic. In fact, I have changed hotels so I didn't have to cross some of the alleys - the main streets are mostly cars, but any minor street is mostly bikes, thousands of them, so many that you sometimes cannot actually get across the street.

Starbucks Success in Shanghai

I make it a rule to visit Starbucks everywhere in the world (for cultural anthropology reasons) and of course Shanghai is fertile ground, now with 57 stores. In fact, Starbucks is a great window into China's rapidly changing culture, on many levels. A great report on their market entry is available here.

First, "experts" predicted that Starbucks would fail in China - it's too expensive for local incomes, no one drinks coffee, and everyone smokes (Starbucks is smoke-free). And other said they'd have to modify their menus (as they have in Japan & Beijing) for more tea, etc.

In the end, they did none of the above in Shanghai, which after all is an international city that really wants to be global in all aspects. As a result, Starbucks has boomed, flooded with locals, who may always drink coffee, but are laying out $3-4 for the beverage of their choice.

And culturally, it provides a place for teens and women to sit and hang out, smoke-free, with friends and on dates. I see this as the biggest cultural change Starbucks brings, for most parts of the world don't have a cafe culture, especially for women (i.e. men can always hang out in bars). Especially in cultures where young women live at home, venues for dates, friends, and just getting out of the house are limited - this is just such a place.

And Starbucks has by far the best service in Shanghai - smiling faces, good English, and just a service-oriented attitude still found wanting in much of the city.

Some images - the very popular Starbucks at XinTianDi, a store next to the museum, and finally, some women actually in a Starbucks writing a song / jingle for Starbucks !

Odd Building Tops

What's with the odd roof-top structures on new Shanghai buildings. A good number of the new buildins have very strange tops, with UFOs, pyramids, and many other shapes common. And it's not just signature buildings, but run-of-the-mill office buildings. The best is the UFO atop the Radisson. I guess the idea is to stand out, but a decade or two later and these things look mighty funny.

Ladies of the Night

I was duly warned about the oldest profession in Shanghai and aptly so. My first week there offered many opportunities to meet such ladies, usually making a bee-line for me in the tourist areas to 'practice English.' They also show up in force on weekends at places like XinTianDi, the foreigner bar area - I spent an hour or so chatting with one as she became more desperate to get me to leave, starting with "let's go meet my friends" to calling in her associate as backup to offering full 2-on-1 action. Regardless, the girls spread out on every other barstool to await their prey, or, as I saw in another place, they are run by a pimp who directs them to westerners coming in the door. It was all rather amusing.

XinTianDi

Shanghai is changing very rapidly. Even at the more subdued pace of 2005, there are still cranes everywhere and neighborhoods coming down all around. In the midst of this, there is XinTianDi - or New Sky Earth. This is a mixed-use development project in the heart of Shanghai, the first phase of which is a rebuilt set of traditional buildings that house a very Western set of shops - Starbucks, Coffee Bean, San Francisco's Shanghai 1930 restaurant Chain, and many other bars. It's largely a foreigner hangout, but also now caters to many Chinese, for many reasons.

Nanjing Dong Lu & People's Square Park

Nanjing East Road is the neon tourist wonder of Shanghai - very much like Fisherman's Wharf, with lots of tourists (Chinese & Foreign) and all that brings. Plenty of neon, shops, hookers, bars, etc. along this long, largely pedestrian only street from the Bund / River to People's Square. But, after a day or two, you learn to avoid Nanjing Dong Lu to avoid the hookers, guys selling watches, and the general annoyances associated with any tourist area. You instead go to Nanjing Xi Lu, to the west, which is the high-class shopping district.

Nanjing Lu has some very interesting buildings, especially at the square, including my favorite, the JW Marriott, a semi-twisted skyscraper. The park also has a few good bars such as Kathleen's 5 on top of a museum and Barbarossa on a small pond, plus a Starbucks and other goodies.

Shanghai Weather

The weather in Shanghai is interesting, though not always in a good way. My first trip in September was decent, if not hot at 90+ degrees and modestly muggy weather. While perhaps not quite as hot/muggy as Hong Kong, there is nowhere near the air conditioning here. October weather was better and very pleasant, though December started to get windy and chilly - not in the tropics any more. The air is almost always hazy, sometimes with visibility measured in blocks, and that's not even in summer - I am not really looking forward to summer. Maybe a May or June visit and then U.S. vacation until September !

Welcome to China Perceptions

This is my new blog on my perceptions of China. I live in Silicon Valley, but spend a fair amount of time in China, mostly in Shanghai. This blog contains my perceptions, impressions, and thoughts regarding the Middle Kingdom in the early 21st century.

For pictures, see my travel site under Shanghai 2005 & 2006.